WINING & DINING
Stelze, What's in a Name?
Schweinshaxe in Germany, Crispy Pata in the Philippines
— it's pure scrumptiousness that defies nomenclature

A small serving of Stelze at Schweizerhaus in Prater, Vienna, Austria (©ANPJ)

S
telze, in Austrian cuisine, is a roasted ham hock (pork knuckle, the end of the pig's leg just above the ankle and below the meaty ham portion) — usually marinated or pre-boiled in a caraway seed and garlic brine, roasted until the skin is crisp, and served with mustard, horseradish, and pickled chili peppers.

Known in Germany as Schweinshaxe, the roasted ham hock is one of the formerly typical peasant foods, in which recipes were created to make inexpensive cuts of meat scrumptious. Such inexpensive cuts usually require long periods of preparation. The meat is usually marinated for days, even a week in the case of big cuts. It is then roasted at low temperatures, typically — depending on size — for two to three hours, and then served with its most popular sides: potatoes and cabbage.

It is especially popular in Bavaria as Schweinshaxn or Sauhax(n), which is served with potato dumplings and red cabbage, or with sauerkraut and potatoes. Elsewhere in Germany another variation is called Eisbein, in which the ham hock is first pickled and slightly boiled before roasting.

In the Philippines, it is known as Crispy Pata, consisting mainly of deep-fried pig trotters, usually served with a soy-vinegar dip. Like it's European cousins, it’s crispy to chewy on the outside, and when done well, will have that rich fatty flavor all the way to its tender meat. It's as commonplace at a party banquet as at a family dining table, with many restaurants serving them without the bone as a house specialty.

While indulgent on its own, Crispy Pata is not complete without an important component: the dipping sauce. Among the most popular are the Classic Dip (chopped onions in soy sauce, vinegar, and sugar mix), Sesame Dip (finely chopped ginger, cilantro, and garlic in sesame oil, vinegar, soy sauce, and honey), and Spicy Lime Dip (finely chopped garlic and red chili pepper in green lemon juice, sugar, water, and fish sauce).

And then, of course, there's a bottle of Mang Tomas — all-around sweet, thick, and tangy sauce made from crushed pork liver, water, sugar, vinegar, breadcrumbs, and a secret blend of spices — arguably the most versatile condiment that may just be the perfect partner (aside from beer, of course) for the Crispy Pata, Schweinshaxe, and Stelze. — ANPJ/1


     



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